For several decades now I have been happily converting toy soldiers using the two part modelling compound known to all as Milliput, which does have it's limitations and sometimes causes a bit of skin irritation. In the meantime, the rest of the world seems to have passed me by and moved on to using a similar product known as Green Stuff. Not wanting to miss out, I wandered down to Games Workshop to see what all the fuss was about and bought some.
I spent much of last year basing and painting up just about every Viking, Saxon and Norman figure that I could find, so in order to get a bit of variety I started combing through the junk boxes at toy soldier shows looking for damaged figures to repair and anything that might be easily converted without too much effort. My first attempt with Green Stuff was just adding beards and extra hair, nothing too ambitious!
In The Works (a UK book, toy and craft shop) I found some rather useful little wooden disks, they come in three sizes, the middle one is perfect for circular shields on 54mm toy soldiers, while the small one is good for bucklers etc and the largest I will use as an alternative to metal washers for bases. The same store also provided "Pearl Stickers" I'm not sure what you are supposed to do with these but they are little half domes of plastic, sticky on the flat side, and perfect for making shield bosses.
The look I was going for was a sort of generic Hiberno, Celtic, Pictish barbarian look. The first two above started life as Indians in the Jean Hoefler (German) Wild West series, with feathers and trouser fringes trimmed off, then facial hair, shields and suitable weaponry added, the monk was a Hoefler nativity figure of Joseph who has had a crucifix on a pole added. Finally, a Cherilea (UK) Saxon, who had lost his spear has been rearmed then given a shield and painted up as a "Wild Irish" noble.
Another wild west Indian, this time by Cherilea, brandishes a new sword while hurling insults at the enemy. A Cherilea Saxon archer who had lost his bow is now throwing a dart, a peculiarly Irish weapon of the time, the scar from the quiver trimmed off his back has been hidden under a shield which is hung on a strap cut from metal foil. Next a REAMSA (Spanish) Viking is unaltered, just painted up to join the Irish warband. The last figure is from a recent wild west set made in China, I think sold under the brand name Supreme, the rest of the range are really rather poor but I quite liked the pose of this one thrusting with a spear.
Three more recruits for the Irish warband, a Hong Kong copy of a Marx (USA) Viking has been given a long handled axe, another REAMSA Viking just given a paint job and a Beja Tribesman made by Armies in Plastic (USA) who is suitably barefoot and ragged to look the part.
Getting back to the Green Stuff, I found it easy to mix and easy to apply but it hardens much faster than Milliput so you have to work fairly quickly, I wasn't expecting that and I don't see how some modellers on other blogs can do such extensive and intricate work using it. I guess it's a bit of a learning curve but on balance I think I still prefer the Milliput.
This lot would never win any prizes in a modelling competition (not that I go in for that sort of thing) but I think I'll get away with it when they're all mixed into a horde on the wargame table. At the end of the day it's all just a bit of fun...……..isn't it?
Getting back to the Green Stuff, I found it easy to mix and easy to apply but it hardens much faster than Milliput so you have to work fairly quickly, I wasn't expecting that and I don't see how some modellers on other blogs can do such extensive and intricate work using it. I guess it's a bit of a learning curve but on balance I think I still prefer the Milliput.
This lot would never win any prizes in a modelling competition (not that I go in for that sort of thing) but I think I'll get away with it when they're all mixed into a horde on the wargame table. At the end of the day it's all just a bit of fun...……..isn't it?
It is indeed just a bit of fun but they look darned good to me!
ReplyDeleteI've used both and other putties and they all have something going for them. (and I've never used the GW brand green stuff but I've been given to understand its the same as others). The trick with green stuff is to mix it it in small batches. I've found it sticks better than Milliput, esp in small amounts, esp on plastic but that could be just my clumsiness with the miliput.
Really like those shield bosses! I'll have to keep that in mind if I ever get back to converting ancients etc. I also like the Reamsa Viking I can picture him as a figure in an illustration in a Classics Illustrated or a Prince Valiant strip.
I think I'm starting to see that both putties have their place in the converter's arsenal. Now that you mention it I think a a lot of the Reamsa Viking have a very Hal Foster look to them.
DeleteSome lovely figures you have converted and/or painted. They really look the part.. The shield idea is terrific and very effective. I have always used milliput but am tempted to try green stuff after your comments. .Your rummaging and foraging has really paid off.
ReplyDeleteUsing odds and ends of scrap for conversions takes me back to schoolboy days, we are after all the Blue Peter generation.
DeleteGreat conversions. hard to spot what they originally were.
ReplyDeleteThey have been camouflaged to confound the enemy!
DeleteSome fine spirited conversions Brian from unusual craft sources. Excellent shield bosses and a convincingly random Celtic horde.
ReplyDeleteInteresting that you mention skin irritation with Milliput, as this is why I do not use Milliput at home due to a family / household allergy towards it (possibly from overexposure of that person using too much of it for work in the past).
I have not yet used Green Stuff, thinking it to be much the same stuff as Milliput.
If I ever have to use Milliput for repairs to crockery and favourite mugs etc I do this in someone else's workshop / garage . It did a fine job on a chip to a bath tub too!
With Milliput I mostly work using modelling tools to reduce handling but still find I have to regularly wash my hands to stop the burn. It is a great material, I use to for all sorts of repairs all over the house.
DeleteNitrile gloves usually do the trick. Takes a bit of getting used to initially.
ReplyDeleteRegards, Chris.
Never thought of that, I'll have to give it a try, thanks Chris.
DeleteWonderful conversions Brian with excellent painting! You have a great eye for creating some truly unique figures! Thanks for the report!
ReplyDeleteIt's always fun to create new poses for a bit of variety.
DeleteGreat stuff Brian, some really creative conversions, good tip about the shields too. I use mainly Greenstuff now, you can get it cheaper online than at GW stores. A couple of things that I have learned, firstly I usually use more yellow than blue in the mix, this makes if softer and I think enhances adhesion, secondly sometimes I found hard lumps when the mixing had finished, I think this happens when the place where the yellow and blue strips meet has "set off", so I usually discard the join. Does that make sense?
ReplyDeleteI still use Milliput on occasion as it makes a strong bond and sets hard, I used Milliput to join the body of a Replicants horse to Imex legs........don't ask!
duof
Thanks Eric, some real good tips here, and yes I found the hard lumps too, so that all makes sense. You and Mike Blake were the "modellers on other blogs" who's work inspired me to have a go, but of course you both would have already guessed that. Going forward I think I can see that both Green Stuff and Milliput will have their uses, not sure I'll be grafting any horses together though!
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